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Thread: Fng

  1. #1
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    Fng

    Hey Guys,
    My name is Kitt, I'm from NC, an I'm considering going V8 here real soon.
    I own a Supercharged 01 GPW that I've had since 06. I love this car to death but I also love Vettes. I know I will never recoupe the money I've sunk into this car so I'm looking at parting out my basically brand new fully built motor and Supercharger, along with my drivetrain to make my Beast into a Full on Monster. Lol.

    I would really like to use an LS3 as my power plant or atleast an LS2. Mainly because I'd like to start my base power for the V8 off at close to what I was making Supercharged (441whp) with the goal to break 500whp N/A with the LS2/3

    I would love to hear any an all advice you guys that have done this have to offer.




  2. #2
    Gonna be honest here. I am not a Vette guy (don't hate them, just don't like them) so I have a 416cu in ls3/l99 S2000 that I'm a wiring harness away from finishing. However if I at all liked vettes it would be far cheaper to buy a c5.

    The ls1, iron 5.3/6.0 or aluminum 5.3 swap can be affordable, but an ls3 swap is much much more expensive. I'll elaborate.


    LS3 pull outs are at best $4500, L99s go for about $3500 plus another $400 in lifters, cams, springs, valley covers, timing setups, and misc to delete VVT and DoD. L92-l9xs are at best $2500 for a low mileage unit and require the same shit as a l99 plus a car intake setup. I went l99 since I wasn't going stock valvetrain anyway so it made sense.

    So let's say $5000 will get you a engine with a cam that will put you close to 500 to the wheels. Then now you need a trans. I wouldn't run a stock fbody t56 with a cammed ls3. So a stock t56 is around 1700 used but a built used unit is around $2500.

    So that's $7500. Then you add the swap components, drive shaft, fuel system, and the real kicker..... Fbody accessories and parts. Realistically you are at $10k real fast.

    My point being a ls3 vette looks better and better the more I spent, but I don't want a Vette. However if you do this swap with a non-6.2 the numbers look extremely better and I can't say I don't wish I stuck a aluminum 5.3 in here since I'm running boost anyway

  3. #3
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    First thanks for posting

    Yea I've been crunching numbers a bit before diving in head first. I'm looking at about $12kish for what I want to achieve. But I "should" almost make that with selling my motor and supercharger. I should make a good coin from selling my Powerhouse Amuse R1000 exhaust and PuddyMod Stage 2 diff as well.
    It's super helpful that you put some numbers ($$$) with the things that I will need. I really appreciate it.

    What would you say is the Biggest PITA with doing this swap?

  4. #4
    Besides the perpetual urge to go one step further which I've succumbed to in the worst ways...(first you delete x and then cutting off y seems even easier)

    The metal work was easy for me since I do it for a living, but I could see it being a pain. My biggest hurdle was entirely with the trans tunnel. A big hammer solved every thing but not before I put the motor in 4 times. First it was the around the bell housing, later followed by the reverse lockout.

    There were some other hiccups exhaust and starter wise for me but they are due to me using motor mounts instead of the motor plates IM sells.

  5. #5
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    It sounds like it's actually a fairly mild swap to do, when using the kits that I2M provides. I am an electrician by trade and my brother is a former mechanic, now welder/machinist so I'm thinking between the two of us it shouldn't be too complicated. Only hurdles I'll have to deal with is cutting and beating on my baby. Lol

  6. #6
    I dont have an LS in mine(2jz) but the metal work was the most difficult, the rest was just finding the right fittings to adapts everything over. Although i made good clearances, I can put the drive-train in myself in 10 minutes with all the available room. I was a mechanic, but i had a welder/machinist friend advise me because those guys really know metal. Taking that center brace out is a workout!

  7. #7
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    FNG lol.. welcome!

    500WHp with especially an LS2 or an LS3 is not so easy on a proper dyno. It's doable but not everyone can.
    Heads, really really important cam selection, valve train/springs/lifters/pushrods/etcetc. Maybe go electric water pump, dry sump if you really want... each one of those can be 5-10hp alone if done right.
    But then you might make it quite peaky all for a rwhp number, meanwhile someone with e.g. a well cammed 480hp, will kick your ass around the track because they have 20hp more the whole way along the rev range... RWHP goals are a trap often I find. E.g a 1200hp 2jz with a usable powerband of 1000rpm... purely a dyno queen and pretty uncontrollable.

    Also an HP number compared to a centri SC F20C is not the easiest to compare - the LS is going to have 2-3x the torque through most of the rev range.. I'd be willing to bet it will feel much faster on a stock LS! Hell the stock LS3 has more torque at 2k rpm than a k24 has at peak lol.. beast is a good way to describe it!

    Also you don't have to go FBody parts, I dont have a single one on my build... Holden (G8 GXP) alternator fits fine. Just need the vette Ls3 water pump and you're away and the pan if not dry sumping it. But I don't have a steering shaft on alternator side like you do. Instead it was ~3mm clearance around the damn dry sump pump pulley... very close. You can always flip the alternator around and mount it backwards though, that will fit and was the second option.

    Let me know if you do want to go dry sump happy to tell you the parts list.. it's not an off shelf kit and the dry sump tank is the hardest thing to fit and size.


    And sure you can compare these builds to an LS3 vette, but it's easy to forget that the vette weighs another few hundred kg more. There are no LS convertibles at this power/weight. Plus, everyone in murica has a vette.. I bet the S2Ks outside of the coast are pretty uncommon like they are here in New Zealand, rare as fuck really. Lucky if I see 10 a year and often the same one more than once... and none are LS swapped here lol.
    Last edited by S2KIWI; 06-04-2016 at 05:54 AM.

  8. #8
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    S2KIWI

    Thanks for responding, everything you've wrote has been really helpful

    I'm trying to decide on if I'm going to pull the trigger and put the LS3 in my S2000 or part it out and buy a C6 Z06.

  9. #9
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    That is a tricky one. If you want ease of use and less hassle getting it going, Z06 (I have a soft spot for the LS7!).. just ensure all the top end stuff is done as there are a few niggles with the LS7s.

    LS3 S2K is going to be much more unique, but longer to get going and I'd dare say a bit better in the corners/braking/accel especially tight twisty stuff, shorter wheel base and a very connected feel.

    Can you try an LS2K near you? Might be a good way to do it... see which is best for you.

  10. #10
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    Closest one to me is probably 400miles away. Lol

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